Wines from middle earth
New Zealand's extraordinary chardonnays, sauvignon blancs, and pinot noirs
Eric Tolles
Of course there is no such place as “middle earth” for the production of wine. But rest assured a few hobbits like Billy Boyd have personally experienced a sharper image of New Zealand’s wines while filming the Lord of the Rings.
New Zealand is one of the most isolated countries on earth, with wild virgin forests surrounded by enchanting coastlines and flatlands. Many of the world’s wine drinkers have not yet savored the piercingly crystalline flavors and bracing acidity of wines from New Zealand. But those who have tasted have fallen madly in love with them, as I have.
In a clean, green image New Zealand has coined the expression “lifestyle winery.”
Chardonnay is now its most widely planted grape. Orand Estate and Gisbourn Chardonnay are my favorites. But it was the iconic sauvignon blanc that made the world take notice. It opened a Pandora’s Box of the flavorful sauvignon blancs, which are either hated or loved. My favorites are Dusky Sounds 12 Degrees and Goldwater Boatshed, from Marlborough. These should be enjoyed young, exhibiting fruit intensity with nuances of gooseberry and lemongrass that linger with a mouthwatering acidity.
The rising star pinot noir is the third most widely planted grape in New Zealand.
Felton Road Winery in Central Otago, Dry Rivers and Peregrine Pinot Noir are wonderful.
New Zealand produces wines, which range in style from bright and zesty, fresh and subtly spiced to mellow and complex. The aromatic varietals’ of riesling and Gewürztraminer are also on the rise as well, as late harvest rieslings and rose.
There are now over 585 wineries producing 20 million liters of wine!
Nicolay Nobilo, Cloudy Bay, Gibbston, Te Mata, Brancott and Babich are prime wine makers that produce wines of noteworthy quality. Kai is native for “food” and these Kai friendly wines are paired well with the cuisines of Asia, France, Italy and the Pacific Rim.
I salute my Kiwi friends: Tiffany Anders, former beverage manager with me in the Pacific Northwest, and winemakers Steve Boyd and Michael Goldstein, owners of CBC Coastal Beverage Company in New Zealand. While they love to talk wine, they also encourage me to tell those New Zealand bound to try some hokey pokey ice cream made from the Zespri gold kiwifruit or taro root and green coconut drinks.
I’m told the stars of Lord of the Rings stayed at the magnificent Powderhorn Chateau in Wellington. A visit might just have you sharing a glass of pinot noir with a hobbit or a mug of Tui pale lager with Frodo and Sam at Shire’s Rest, while viewing the Southern Cross and recounting epic battles.
This would be a fellowship sure to remember!
Eric Tolles is wine expert who has helped many Caribbean resorts build award winning wine lists.
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